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I hope that you all have thoroughly enjoyed my previous post:
Here is the continuing story… Happy reading 🙂
Friday, 19 September 2014
I’m roused from my sleep. I check the time. 3:30 AM. I drift back to sleep. Some time later, I’m awoken again. It is 5:30 AM. I loll in bed for a few minutes till realization hits me. Damn, I missed the sunrise! I quickly rush out of bed, towards the window. Today, the snow peaks look so clear! The building in the front obstructs my view but the snow-covered mountain range can be seen very clearly. In fact, much more better than the previous morning. Is it really the Kangchenjunga range? Was yesterday’s snowy peak really Kangchenjunga? Are my eyes playing tricks on me? Instead of taking photographs, I focus all my attention on the beautiful mountains in the distance. And then, the air is filled with the sound of Akon’s “Beautiful” What??? Someone is playing English songs at 6:00 AM??? I’m absolutely delighted by the song! You’re so beautiful, so damn beautiful… Ooh, such a beautiful day! I feel fully recovered from my bad health of the previous night so I’m most definitely going to North Sikkim today. The weather is bright and sunny.
I have to get ready for the journey but first, I need a jar of warm water. Should I call up room service? Somebody must be up at this hour. The previous morning at 4:45 AM, I heard sounds of somebody moving furniture downstairs, probably the cleaning staff doing their job. Even right now, I can hear somebody downstairs. I love that people wake up so early here. From the window, I can see the womenfolk in the nearby houses going about their morning tasks. I dial room service. A young man answers the phone and takes my request. A short while later, an attendant delivers the water jar. The snow-covered peaks have disappeared in the clouds but the rocky peaks in front of them are visible. “Is that the Kangchenjunga range?” I ask eagerly. “No, Kangchenjunga cannot be seen from here. You’ll be able to see it from the stadium, down the road.” I tell him about the snow peak that I had seen from the travel agency. He has no idea about it. “You’ll find snow in December-January.”
At 7:30 AM, I have toast and butter and another jar of warm water. By 9:30 AM, I’m ready to check out from the hotel. The youngster from the travel agency is waiting for me downstairs. He tells me that my hired vehicle is at the taxi stand and to reach there we need to take a taxi. Okay, as long as you’re paying for it!
At the taxi stand, the Tata Sumo vehicle is waiting. The young driver, Tobgay, does not speak English so I’ll have to spend the next four days talking in Hindi. By the time we start off the journey, it is 10:00 AM. Like an excited kid, I feel like shouting “Yay, I’m off to North Sikkim!” Having seen plenty of amazing photographs of North Sikkim, I’m very eager to breathe the cleanest of clean air of this most beautiful, breathtaking and pristine part of Sikkim with rough terrain.
North Sikkim is a land of high passes, glaciers and remote snowbound terrain. Both Lachen and Lachung are well-known for their picture postcard beauty, rich alpine flora and scenic splendour. The peak seasons are March-May and October-January. In the flowering season of March, the Yumthang “Valley of Flowers” near Lachung becomes a hotspot for tourists. In winter, the entire region is covered with snow and all the high-altitude lakes get frozen. It is an amazing sight but winters are very harsh in this high-altitude region. I have chosen to visit at a time when there are fewer tourists.
Tobgay asks me about my itinerary. I tell him: One night in Lachen and two nights in Lachung. He says that Lachen would be very cold since it is at a higher altitude than Lachung. I think the manager of the travel agency would have been right in recommending Lachen over Lachung in March-May when the weather is warm. I have read in travel forums that Lachen being smaller than Lachung, the hotels there are not equipped with room heaters. In Lachung there are just two or three hotels with room heaters and one of them is Hotel Fortuna Lachung. I would love a homestay accommodation to try some local food. Tobgay tells me there are homestays in both places and he will inquire about it once we reach there. He knows the region well because of his job as a driver often making up and down trips with tourists in all seasons. Besides, his village is somewhere on the way to both places. I tell him about the sunrise over snow-capped mountains from my room window and the snow peak that I have seen from the travel agency the previous morning. I ask him if it could be Kangchenjunga. Go on, tell me it cannot be Kangchenjunga! I’m expecting this answer so I’m totally surprised when he says, “It must be Kangchenjunga.” WHAT??? He tells me that Kangchenjunga can be seen from my hotel road on a clear day and still better from the football stadium, down the road. Ohhh…
I’m keen on trying the local drinks of this region, especially Chang, the locally brewed millet beer. I have read a lot about this drink in travel forums. I ask Tobgay about it, telling him that I want to taste it. He is surprised and asks me whether I drink alcohol because Chang can be a bit strong. Whatever, no harm in trying a bit of it. Due to my cough problem, I haven’t even tried the popular beer of Sikkim called Hit. A local favourite, it is manufactured by the breweries of Bollywood star Danny Denzongpa, who is from Sikkim. Sikkim has its own local distilleries to manufacture and sell liquor so there are many alcohol brands which are unheard of in the rest of the country. I don’t wish to run into any more health problems which would hinder my visit to the high-altitude Gurudongmar Lake so I tell Tobgay to show me some place, where I can stop to taste Chang after returning from the lake, maybe somewhere in Lachung.
From what I have read, Chang is served in a bamboo vessel called “Tongba” which looks like a wooden barrel with a small bamboo pipe poked into it. Hot water is poured into the barrel containing fermented millet and kept for a few minutes before sipping the drink through the bamboo pipe. Once the beer runs out, hot water is again poured into the barrel 10-15 minutes before having it. The process is repeated till the millets lose their potency. An ideal drink for people who have very little to do on a high altitude mountain settlement. It keeps them warm. Local healers prescribe it to the sick and women who have just given birth.
Because of landslide on the usual route to North Sikkim via the 18th century Phodong Monastery, we have to take an alternate route which is a bit longer. Tobgay tells me about the sacred spot of Kabi Longstok, some 17 km from Gangtok, on the usual North Sikkim highway where the pact of blood brotherhood was sworn between the Lepchas and the Bhutias in the 15th century. Nine stones were erected facing Kangchenjunga to witness the treaty of brotherhood between the Lepchas and the Bhutias. The spot where the ceremony took place is marked by a memorial stone pillar amidst the cover of dense forest.
The music playing in the vehicle is a mix of Sikkimese pop and Hindi film songs. Tobgay says that other than a few World Cup football songs, there are no English songs in the playlist. That’s okay. The Sikkimese songs sound good and the old, melodious Hindi film songs go well with the beautiful landscape.
We stop to take in this lovely view of the Teesta River, the lifeline of Sikkim.
The Teesta River remains a constant companion throughout the road journey from Gangtok to Siliguri. It originates from the Pahunri (Teesta Kangse) glacier in the north and is fed by waters from the mountains including Lachen and Lachung rivers, as it flows down south through the Himalayan gorges. On the way, it is joined by Rangpo and Rangit rivers before entering West Bengal at Sevoke, 22 kms from Siliguri. The turbulent waters of both Teesta and Rangit are very popular with rafting aficionados. In fact, river rafting is a common sport practised in the raging waters of Teesta.
Around 12:00 PM, we reach the district headquarters of North Sikkim, Mangan. This small town, 65 km away from Gangtok, is a transit point to other destinations of this region. While Tobgay goes to have lunch, I enter a shop to purchase bananas and three mineral water bottles. Mineral water bottles are banned in Lachen so it would be better to stock a few. A short while later, Tobgay returns. I ask him what he had for lunch and he says, chicken momos. At the word “momos”, my eyes perk up and my mouth starts watering. It’s a pity that I can’t eat anything till I reach Lachen. I’m so tempted to go to the restaurant for vegetable momos but the ugly thought of throwing up on the way makes me change my mind. I guess there are momos in the parcel that he has brought and kept on the dashboard. His dinner, perhaps. He asks me if I’m vegetarian. “No, but I’m currently keeping off non-vegetarian food.”
Leaving Mangan behind, we continue our journey through the high mountains. Like in West Sikkim and the road to Nathula, here too, the road looks mostly good, except for places where there are landslides or where water flows over the road.
Half an hour later, we stop at Singhik View Point, about four kilometres from Mangan. On a clear day, it offers a magnificent view of the Kangchenjunga range and surrounding hills but today, it is cloudy.
Five minutes later, we stop at the Myang Falls. With a thundering sound, the water hits the rocks, gushing out of culverts under the road before flowing down the valley below. I see a beaded garland lying on one of the rocks. It turns out to be the remains of the immersion ceremony of the Vishwakarma Pooja which concluded the previous morning. Tobgay tells me that devotees look for cleaner waters to immerse Lord Vishwakarma idols. Hmmm, I just hope that the immersed idol was environment-friendly.
Watch my video: Myang Falls
We drive on. Twenty minutes later, we stop at another waterfall…the Naga Falls.
Here again, the water flows under the road bridge into the valley.
It is a beautiful drive and the temperature is cooler. All this while, I have been listening to lovely old Hindi songs playing in the vehicle. And then, suddenly Shakira’s latest rocking number LaLaLa starts playing. “Do you know who the singer is?” I ask Tobgay. “Shakira,” he grins. “Khatarnak nachti hain” (She’s a deadly dancer). Absolutely! The next two songs are of Bryan Adams and they are not football songs. Tobgay doesn’t like his third song “Everything I do” which he probably thinks is a sad song. He presses for the next song after listening a paragraph of the slow number. Hmmm… The first and also the last music concert that I have attended of any international pop star has been that of Bryan Adams. That was way back in 1993 when he performed in Mumbai on his first visit to India. I was perched on the shoulders of a tall guy right in front of the stage when the handsome pop star (my favourite at that time) and I locked eyes for almost a minute. And then…I broke off the eye contact to look at his long-haired guitarist! It seems so funny now, after twenty-two years. “Everything I do” was one of his latest popular songs at that time and I loved it then. His husky voice and the beautiful lyrics were perfect for the “Robin hood” movie. I had memorised the entire song at that time and used to sing it. Hmmm, how time flies!
Climbing uphill for half an hour or so, we reach a check-post where my permit is examined. A little later, we are at Chumthang, a small village situated at the confluence of the two rivers, Lachen and Lachung, tributaries of the mighty Teesta River. It is about 95 kms from Gangtok. Below we could see ongoing work of the Teesta hydroelectric project. We stop to take a good look at it.
From Chumthang, the North Sikkim highway bifurcates into two, one heading towards Lachen, about 27 km away and the other towards Lachung, about 20 km away. We head westward towards the higher alpine region of Lachen.
Tobgay shows me a mountain ahead with clusters of tall white prayer flags attached to poles. In Buddhist culture, people put up 108 white prayer flags to honour their deceased relatives. Tobgay says he has planted a few of them there along with some cousins on the death of a close relative. Why only 108? In Buddhist culture, 108 is a sacred number in Buddhism. To please the soul of the deceased, places with pure clean air and plenty of breeze are preferred for the prayer flags. Hence, mountains are the first choice. It is believed that when the wind moves prayer flags, even with the slightest breeze, these prayers and blessings become activated, and then are carried through the air in a spiritual vibration across the vicinity. Not only does the flag planter, but everything that is touched by the wind, and all sentient beings, benefit from the prayers and blessings that are carried by the wind.
We reach a small hill village after Chumthang. This is Tobgay’s village. His sister lives here. He goes to her house, adorned with colourful flowering potted plants, and returns a few minutes later with a large can of diesel to fill the diesel tank. The landscape becomes absolutely stunning from here onwards. Misty mountains hover around us all the way while the Lachung river speeds forcibly through the stone boulders in a crashing roar alongside the road.
I stop at many places to take photographs but they do no justice to the picturesque sceneries. This is one of the most beautiful drive I have taken.
I ask Tobgay if the locals catch the river fish. He says no, fishing is not allowed in any of the rivers of Sikkim. Oh, really? Maybe he isn’t aware about the trout-fishing camps promoted for adventure tourism in North Sikkim. He tells me that the people of North Sikkim don’t kill animals. They are peace-loving people. Meat and chicken comes from Gangtok. What about the nice-looking healthy goats? They are raised for wool, not meat. He tells me that most hotels in this region serve only vegetarian food.
As we drive through the steep mountainous road nearing Lachen, all my senses are treated to the stunning surroundings and cleanest air…
Watch my video: En route to Lachen
I look on wide-eyed as we drive past gigantic mountains, covered in mist. The captivating surroundings leave me spellbound. Sky high mountains and deep valleys are a common sight in the other northeast Indian states too but Sikkim is exceptionally beautiful. And, North Sikkim just defies description! I’m totally smitten by this enchanting land. It is as if I have set foot in paradise. I have experienced this feeling only once before, in Ladakh. It was the first time I had fallen so in love with a place. Now, history is repeating itself. I can imagine how incredibly beautiful it must be in winter: these sky-hugging mountains covered with thick snow. All this while, I have kept my camera aside to absorb the stunningly beautiful surroundings. We drive in complete silence as the sublime beauty of this awesome place has left me dumbstruck with awe.
Soon, we are in the small village of Lachen. It is 4:00 PM and the weather is bad. Instead of towering snow peaks and lush-green valleys, I see is thick fog everywhere! Tobgay climbs out to show my permit and register the vehicle entry at the police station. When he returns, we drive down the small road. Except for some construction activity in a corner, the place is deserted. Tobgay enquires about accommodation at a few places but he is told that due to off-season, everything is closed. There is nothing ahead so he reverses the vehicle and drives back to take an uphill road alongside which there is a five-storeyed building, “Hotel View Point”. He tells me that it’s a very good hotel. Stepping outside, I feel very chilled. The place looks deserted.
Climbing up the stairs, I call out to see if anybody is around but nobody answers. Reaching the first floor, I just see locked rooms but no office. Tobgay climbs upstairs to check and a few minutes later, returns with another young guy, Bhaichung, who happens to be the person looking around the place. He tells me the normal room tariff is 3000 rupees including breakfast, lunch and dinner but since it is off-season he can give me a 50% discount. With no other accommodation available, I agree to it. He has kept a room ready for a foreign couple who are due to arrive soon. It is a comfortable room and the bathroom, although not to my liking, is okay for a night. I tell Tobgay to knock at my door at 4:15 AM the next morning to start for Gurudongmar Lake.
It is foggy and chilling cold. I shiver in the cold as I take in the view of the small village.
Watch my video: View from my Lachen hotel
At an elevation of 8500 feet, about 120 km from Gangtok, Lachen is a remote hamlet of fewer than 200 houses. Being close to the Northern borders of Sikkim and the higher reaches of the Himalayas, it is the starting point for a number of high altitude treks, including a trek route to the Green Lake and the Kangchenjunga National Park. And, the base to reach the high altitude lake, the holy Gurudongmar Lake.
The cold triggers my cough and I rush inside the room. It is cold inside too so I snuggle into bed warmly comforted by two thick blankets. The TV is not working. So there is nothing else to do but lie down. A few minutes later, I hear animated chatter outside my door. The foreign couple must have arrived. I’m tempted to open the door and take a peek outside but it is so cold. Time passes slowly. It is 5:00 PM. Fed up of lying down, I haul myself out of bed and open the door. Immediately, I’m greeted by a strong blast of chill. There is no change in the landscape, it is still foggy. In fact, even more and it is colder. The two foreign guests step out of an adjacent room. They are two young girls, perhaps in mid-20s, from England. They tell me they are on a weeklong tour starting from Kolkata to Darjeeling, Pelling, Gangtok, Lachen,Lachung,Gangtok, Kalimpong and back to Kolkata. It is the same circuit as mine except that I’m on a two week trip. They are accompanied by a tour guide so they are surprised to see me alone. I tell them I’m Indian and speak Hindi very well. Being foreign tourists, they can visit only the Chopta Valley from Lachen and Yumthang Valley from Lachung. Their tour guide is waiting for them to take them on a tour of the small village which also has a small monastery. Much as I would like to, I cannot stay outside for long knowing that the chilly weather could worsen my cough and hamper my next morning trip. So I return to my room. The bottled water is very cold. So I warm it up in my mouth before letting it slide down my throat.
An hour later, Bhaichung is at the door with two burning incense sticks filling the air with sandalwood fragrance. He tells me the room has remained unopened for a long time so the fragrance would freshen up the room. Right, but it will also aggravate my cough. During the past few days, whenever a truck or a vehicle passed by releasing black exhaust fumes, I would start coughing. I tell him to keep just one stick inside the room. When he says that dinner is ready, I suddenly realize that except for two bananas and a few bites of dark chocolate, I have not eaten anything since breakfast. I ask him if it is Sikkimese or Tibetan food. “No, North Indian.” Such a disappointment! In this slack season, their food stock is basic. Half an hour later, my dinner arrives: rice, dal, roti, vegetable paneer, glass noodles and dahi. I immediately reach out for the small cup of glass noodles. Mmmm…I love it! I have two of the piping hot rotis with a little bit of vegetable paneer, and the dahi. After the dinner table is cleared, I hop into bed. Around 8:00 PM, the lights go off. There is no candle in the room. I look for the LED torch that I have bought aboard my flight. A small piece but it shines brightly in the dark. I place it on the bedside table and go to sleep.
Saturday, 20 September 2014
The alarm goes off at 3:30 AM. I reach out for my torch. Thank God for it! I’m ready to leave when Tobgay knocks at the door. At 4:25 AM, it is pitch dark outside, and very chilly. I’m excited, eager and thrilled as we start for Gurudongmar Lake which is just five kilometres away from the Tibet border. It is a 3-4 hour drive to the holy lake which, at 17100 feet, is the second highest lake in India and one of the highest in the world. Tobgay looks very tense as we drive along the lonely rough road passing through high mountains and plummeting valleys. The road condition is risky, with danger at every step. I remain silent, listening to the soothing Buddhist chants playing on the stereo. During peak seasons, tourist cars start off one after another so if there is any problem on the way, help is at hand. But today we are the only ones on road. After twenty minutes or so, we see a tourist car ahead. I can almost hear Tobgay’s sigh of relief. We overtake the vehicle. Fifteen minutes later, when dawn breaks, Tobgay’s tension eases. The landscape is beautiful with high mountains at every turn…
Watch my videos: En route to Gurudongmar Lake – 1
Driving through rugged mountain terrain we reach the small village of Thangu. There is an Indian Army camp nearby. Thangu is the last village on the way to Gurudongmar Lake. Tourist cars make a breakfast halt here for a cup of tea and Maggi noodles. Located at an altitude of 13,000 feet, this small mountain settlement is occupied only during the warm seasons. As winter approaches, the villagers migrate down towards Lachen. I see a few clustered houses around and wonder where Tobgay wanted to stop for breakfast. Most of them are locked from the outside. He drives on. We climb higher to a high alpine valley between the mountains. And then… I get to watch National Geographic channel – live! Two yaks are mating just alongside the road. Oops! Guys, isn’t it a bit too early in the day for this? I have read somewhere that yaks are aggressive animals so they are cross-bred with cows to create a less aggressive animal to suit the purpose of their owners.
Gurudongmar Lake lies in a high plateau on the northern side of the Kanchenjunga mountain range and adjacent to the Tibetan plateau. Only Indian tourists are allowed to visit this lake. This entire region is controlled by the Indian Army and access to the sacred lake is strictly monitored by them at the check-post located at 15,000 feet in Giaogong. The highest lake in India, Tso Lhamu, located at 18000 feet, is just a few kilometres away from Gurudongmar Lake. But due to its proximity to the Tibet border, tourists are not allowed there.
Watch my video: En route to Gurudongmar Lake – 3
The vegetation has started thinning out. I see groups of Indian Army soldiers on their morning drill. We reach the Indian Army camp at Gaiogong where tourist permits are checked. I step out to walk around. Brrr…it is so very cold! A passing soldier invites me to have tea. So sweet! But I have stopped drinking tea and coffee for health reasons. A few others wish me “Good Morning” as they pass by. I have worn warm clothing, leather gloves, covered my head with a hat underneath which is a woollen skull cap, covered my face with a woollen stole and yet, I’m shivering in the cold. l very cold. After spending five minutes or so outside, I return to the warm comfort of my vehicle. Soon, Tobgay returns accompanied by a soldier. The latter comes over to my window which I quickly roll down. He tell me they have a stock of medication in case of high-altitude sickness. I assure him that I’m fine. We have a short friendly chat. He is about to leave when something inside me screams…Shake hands with him!!! I immediately extend my hand out to him. He is taken aback and then slowly accepts it with a smile. YESSS!!!I have finally shaken hands with one of my Army soldiers!!! The one thing I badly wanted to do two days ago in Nathu La, I have finally done it here at nearly 17,000 feet! I’m delighted. A few minutes later, Tobgay returns accompanied by an old local, who sits behind. He is the priest-cum-caretaker of the temple at Gurudongmar Lake. We start off and the stereo starts playing some of my favourite English songs, one after another.
Watch my video: En route from Giaogong to Gurudongmar Lake – 1
As we near the lake, the landscape becomes more and more barren. It reminds me of beautiful Ladakh. Tobgay points out to me the distant mountains of Tibet. We stop for me to take a picture of this lovely glacier, the Gurudongmar Glacier…
We are now just ten minutes away from the lake. It feels like a desert high up in the mountains. The priest bestows high praise on me. “It takes great courage for someone to come here alone all the way from Mumbai. And you are a girl!” He goes on, “I’ll make coffee for you.” That is so sweet but I don’t drink coffee.
Watch my videos: En route from Giaogong to Gurudongmar Lake – 2
We reach the lake around 7:45 AM. There is no other tourist car around. I step out and walk down towards the still waters of the lake, with the priest and Tobgay behind. The placid lake is simply mesmerising. Hey, what’s this? I see 2-3 Hit beer bottles and an empty cigarette pack lying around the edge of the lake. How disgusting!!! The old priest immediately rushes forward to collect the litter. “They drink alcohol, play loud music and litter the lake surroundings.” Collecting the litter thrown around the lake, sometimes inside the lake too, has become a habit for him. I feel a surge of anger at this pathetic behaviour of rowdy visitors, who don’t even spare a beautiful holy lake.
I walk around the place, taking photographs. The priest and Tobgay proceed towards the small temple nearby. The temple, previously was a Gurudwara built by a few soldiers of the Indian Army, but it was later converted into a prayer house for all religions. So it is known as the Sarva Dharma Sthala (Place of worship for all religions).
Watch my videos: Gurudongmar Lake – 1
The sun is shining bright in the clear blue sky. The still blue water, the Gurudongmar Glacier, snow-capped peaks and barren hills, the quiet and serene surroundings, the fluttering multi-coloured prayer flags … Hmmm, such bliss!
This beautiful lake is sacred to Hindus, Buddhists as well as Sikhs. During winter, the lake gets frozen except for one spot.
I climb up to walk towards a long staircase leading to the gravel path circling the lake on the other side. A silvery stream gently flows by. A small make-shift wooden bridge built across it leads to the other side.
I have read that the Lachen River, which is a snow fed river originating in the Eastern Himalayas, flows down all along the road to Gurudongmar Lake. So this clear water stream must be the Lachung River.
The pristine natural beauty of the place is overwhelming. It’s just me and the vast barren land…so quiet and peaceful. It feels like paradise. I feel incredibly happy to be here. As usual, I forget that I’m in the high-altitude region and walk at a rapid pace along the path, leaving me struggling for breath.
But I’m delighted to see this beautiful view of the temple and the place where my Sumo is parked. I have covered quite a distance in a short time! I rest for a while and wonder if I should continue ahead. If only I had taken slow steps! My thumping heart refuses to subside. Due to scarcity of oxygen at such a height, staying here for more than an hour is not recommended for tourists. The military instructions at Giaogong allow visitors to spend a maximum of two hours in the plateau. The earliest time to enter is 7:30 AM and the latest time is 10:30 AM. The time to exit Giaogong is 12:30 PM, after which the weather worsens. The sublime tranquillity is so intoxicating that I want to spend some more time at the lake. Much against my will, I turn back. On the way, I see an Indian Army soldier collecting water from the stream. My brave Army guys! Bearing all pains and pressures in wind-swept remote regions of the Himalayas such as this for a selfless job: to protect the country’s borders.
When I near the stream, I see a man dressed in sweatshirt and jeans climbing down the staircase. He must be from the tourist car that we overtook early in the morning. By the time I reach the top of the staircase, I’m totally exhausted. Thud…thud…thud… I can hear my heart thumping loudly. The guy who has climbed down for a pee, climbs up, and passes me but I’m still standing in the same place. The driver of the other vehicle comes over to ask me if I need garlic. Nope, it is not altitude sickness. I’m just out of breath. I move slowly towards the temple. I see a woman approaching. She is dressed in a salwar kameez with just a light sweater to warm her. Are these guys nuts? We are at 17100 feet and they are dressed for low-altitude hill station weather. There is a hard look on her face as she raises her voice from twelve feet away. “Excuse me, Madam, where are you from?” I’m shocked. How rude! Her question or rather her demand in South-Indian accented voice did not sound like a start of a polite or friendly conversation. It was more like being confronted with a harsh “You are not supposed to be here!” Still, I reply politely, “Mumbai”, and move on. Her facial expression turns “Ohhh” but she doesn’t say anything as she walks on past me.
I walk towards the temple and find Tobgay sitting inside. He goes to bring me a glass of warm water. Meanwhile I enter the small temple room. When I step outside I meet the priest who once again asks me if I’ll have coffee. He pleads with me. He says that he will add extra milk. “Apki seva karne ka mauka milega” (I’ll get the opportunity to serve you). How sweet! Still, there is no way that I’m going to have coffee in this high-altitude place. But I’ll have water. Disappointed, he tells me that Tobgay has gone to boil the water. I can do with one more glass. But the old man is pretty miffed with Tobgay for ruining his opportunity so he is unable to realize this. Soon, Tobgay returns with a glass of warm water. It tastes sweet. When he says it is from the lake, I’m thrilled. I feel better after the glass of warm water. It’s been more than an hour since our arrival at the lake. I step outside to find the second vehicle missing. Tobgay tells me that one of the tourists had breathing trouble so they had to leave. What a pity! They were here for barely ten minutes.
The view of the lake has now become more scintillating with the reflection of the snow-capped peaks and the barren hills in the clear blue waters.
As I stand by the banks watching the calm blue lake, I can see the pebbles in the bottom of the lake.
We leave around 9:00 AM after I carry this last picture of sweet memories.
We drive towards Chopta Valley which one and a half hour away on the return journey. On the way, I stop to take a photograph of these yaks grazing in the valley alongside the Lachen River.
Three men waiting alongside the road wave their hands as we near them. Tobgay asks for my permission to offer them a lift which I happily give. They are going to get off a little ahead of Thangu.
We reach Chopta Valley around 10: 25 AM. Situated at a height of 13,200 feet, this is the second “Valley of Flowers” in North Sikkim after the more famous one at Yumthang. In Spring, the valley blooms with orchids, rhododendrons and other high altitude flora.
I step out to admire this lovely alpine valley surrounded by green mountains with thick looming clouds. Gigantic boulders, gushing rivers, sparkling streams greet my eyes…
Watch my video: Chopta Valley
I walk along the road overlooking the valley, curious to see where it ends. Once again, I make the mistake of walking at a quick pace. After a fifteen minute walk in the high-altitude cold and windy air, I’m out of breath and turn back. But not before taking a few lovely photographs…
The Chopta River snakes up the middle of the valley…
After spending almost half an hour outside, I return to my Sumo, a little exhausted but very content. Tobgay tells me it is the same kind of landscape towards the end of the road. I will better on the scenic drive, enjoying the old melodious Hindi film songs playing on the stereo. At Thangu, one of the men gets down. Tobgay has not stopped for food and refreshments. Isn’t he hungry after driving for so long?
The sun is shining brightly. The lofty mountains that I had seen early morning under dark skies now look lush-green.
Watch my video: En route from Chopta Valley to Lachen – 1
This misty mountain takes my breath away…
Watch my videos: En route from Chopta Valley to Lachen – 2
This beautiful land in the clouds has enchanted me completely. So I feel a bit sad to see the beauty of some of the mountains marred by chemical blasting. At one place, Tobgay slows down to let two wild hens cross the road. I have seen some of their kind at the Darjeeling zoo. But it is very cute to see them leisurely walking, oblivious to an approaching vehicle. Is it lunch time? I check my mobile phone. It is 12:15 PM. The remaining two men seated behind get off somewhere ahead.
We reach Lachen around 1:00 PM. The moment I step out of the vehicle and remove my hat, my head feels heavy. I replace the hat, but still, my head feels terrible. I climb up the four floors, quickly open my room door and flop into bed. I remove the hat, the woollen skull cap and suddenly I feel something have never experienced before. My head feels like it has been weighed down heavily and is splitting apart and my brains are getting squeezed inside. I rub my head hard, stopping short of pulling my hair apart. I didn’t know what was happening. Should I tell Bhaichung that I need a head massage? But after that, I’ll need to wash my hair. I can’t go around with an oily head. Moreover, the boys will get scandalized by my request. The previous evening, when Bhaichung and two of his boys brought me dinner in my room, they left the door slightly ajar, letting in a cold icy wind. When I told one of the boys to shut the door, he had looked uncomfortable like…What???She’s telling me to close the door when we three are still inside the room??? Shivering in the cold, I had to get up and close the door myself while they went on with their task of setting my dinner on the table.
I give myself a good head massage for about 15-20 minutes. It makes me feel better. I lay down for a while, covering myself head to toe with two thick blankets. Within half an hour, my lunch is at the door which I have kept unlocked for the boys to enter. I tell them to come in but they don’t. Uff! I get up, open the door letting them in, close the door and return to bed. I see that the food is the same as last evening…rice, dal, vegetable paneer, rotis. I could sleep forever but I know I have to haul myself out of my bed to get ready for the drive to Lachung. And I need to have something to eat to give me energy. I have a bit of the vegetable paneer dish with roti and then the dahi. It makes me feel better.
If my splitting headache were due to high-altitude sickness, I would have puked. The effect of AMS is such that whatever goes down the throat, be it food or water, comes up as soon as it hits the stomach. Most probably, it was because of the tight-fitting woollen skull cap that I had worn underneath my hat for almost nine hours. Looking back, I realize that I had neither suffered nausea throughout the uphill journey nor coughed even once in the entire day since waking up early in the morning! And it very surprising considering that I have been coughing every half an hour over the past weeks.
By 3:15 PM, I’m ready to leave for Lachung. Bhaichung is sweet enough to carry my bag to the Sumo instead of calling one of his boys. I tell Tobgay about my headache and to my surprise he says that even he felt a slight headache. Oops, poor fellow! Because of me, he had to suffer too. In the morning, when we had started for the lake, I had asked him as to why he wasn’t wearing a cap. He had said that he was used to high-altitudes. Maybe I shouldn’t have stayed at the lake for so long but it wasn’t my fault. Time passed so quickly. Perhaps it was because he hadn’t eaten anything besides a few biscuits that I had offered him.
The road passes alongside the Lachung River.
Watch my video: En route from Lachen to Lachung – 1
The scenic drive passes through thick jungles. At one place, Tobgay points out two Himalayan monkeys jumping on a nearby tree. Before I remove my camera, they are gone in the dense vegetation. I had seen these animals in captivity at Darjeeling zoo.
Close to Lachung, I see this beautiful scene. Typical mountain dwellings in the higher regions of the land…
Watch my video: En route from Lachen to Lachung – 2
Ten minutes later, we are at a roadside waterfall, the Bhim Nala Falls…
Watch my video : Bhim Nala Falls on the way to Lachung – 3
We reach Lachung at 5:00 PM. It is a small village, though a bit larger than Lachen. I have decided to stay at the Lachung Fortuna hotel because it is well-equipped with room heaters. At the hotel, the manager tells me that the room tariff is 3000 rupees per night including breakfast, lunch and dinner. He is ready to give a 20% discount. Considering that it is off-season and they don’t have any guests at present, the discount is meagre. But with no other better option, I decide to stay here. I tell him to make it a round figure of 4500 rupees for the two-night stay and he agrees. The valley-facing room shown to me looks good with a splendid view of the surrounding mountains which are right now covered by clouds. I can hear the roaring sound of the Lachung River flowing through the valley, a short distance away. The bathroom is good, except for a few creepy crawlies that have got in through a slight gap in the window. A few minutes later, I’m gleefully gorging upon a plateful of hot vegetable pakoras. The room heater provides great relief from the cold weather. There is no place in my stomach for any more food after the late evening hot snack so I skip dinner. Around 9:00 PM, I’m off to bed.